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Flying these past few days has been interesting. I use a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro joystick. I guess I have a bit of mileage on the thing and lately my trim switch has been acting up. The trim switch certainly gets the lion's share of work compared to the other switches on the stick (except, maybe, the Hat switch).


I use the two top left buttons for elevator trim - it's a natural as my thumb is directly over these two switches and makes it real easy to access the trim. Now, though, the nose up trim (aft button) works fine but the nose down trim (fwd button) stutters. That's the best description of the action that I can come up with - it stutters. I push on it (it is set to repeat continuously in FSX) and the trim wheel wiggles back and forth without actually turning. I've had to resort to the #1 button on the keypad for nose down trim.


I'm suspicious that the switch is at fault - ie: worn out or making poor contact. I tried switching operations - right hand set for trim and left (ex-trim set) for prop. Now the prop does weird things like moving the trim wheel while going into fine pitch.


I think a new joystick is in my immediate future, but I thought I'd check here before springing for one. Any one else experienced the same symptoms with this joystick?


There's been quite a bit of discussion on this forum about joysticks and it's a pretty personal choice. I need a twist (rudder) operation as I do not have room for a set of pedals (I use the nav station on the boat and the amount of space for my feet is limited). I've been eyeballing the Saitek X65F, but I'm going to have to sell my soul to afford it. It would be nice to have a separate throttle setup (HOTAS) as I'm right handed and I have to reach across the keyboard to access the throttle with my left hand. Using the keyboard is really cumbersome.


Any suggestions gladly embraced.

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They used to sell aerosol cans of "TV Tuner Cleaner" that could be sprayed on switch contacts, etc, to remove corrosion, dirt and generally just clean things up. It might be worth a try to see if there's something similar available these days. You might have to do some disassembly to get to the right place, but you might get lucky with something like that.

Of course it's just as likely that a molded plastic cam or something similar on the button that actually moves the switch contact is worn to the point that it can no longer cause a decent contact pressure.


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Doesn't that new  X-55 Rhino H.O.T.A.S. System from Satiek have separate USB connections so you can separate the joystick and throttle? Haven't read any reviews on it yet.


I have always thought the prices for joysticks are way out there. Check the shopping sites for a good deal. :)  

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Thanks for the suggestions.


Living on a boat, I probably have every possible snake-oil electronics cleaner/conditioner available from Canada to Australia. i was hoping that I wouldn't have to dismantle the joystick (hoping someone had a software fix). I'll go at it today and see if I can do something. The unit has a billion screws holding it together. But, I'm retired, right? All the time in the world.


Also, thanks for the new joystick reference. I'm going to avoid that one as I do my simming on a laptop (3 USB ports - joystick, mouse, cooling pad fan) and have no room for another USB connection. I could go with a Bluetooth mouse, but I'm particularly fond of my Logitech Trackball that, unfortunately, needs a USB port for its little transmitter/receiver.


Here we go, maybe I should post pics of the insides of the joystick.




Someone posted a story about having a neighbour who had bought a new pickup. The poster got up very early one Sunday morning and saw that someone had spray painted red all around the sides of this beige truck (for some unknown reason). The poster went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news. He was very upset and was trying to figure out what to do, probably nothing until Monday morning, since nothing was open. Another neighbour came out and told him to get his WD-40 and clean it off. It removed the unwanted paint beautifully and did not harm his paint job that was on the truck. WD-40 who knew?
Water Displacement #40. The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to find a "water displacement" compound.
They were successful with the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Corvair Company bought it in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts. Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in WD-40 that would hurt you.
(comment from March - Para, above, Corvair? or Convair?) 
When you read the "shower door" part, try it. It's the first thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If yours is plastic, it works just as well as glass. It's a miracle! Then try it on your stovetop... Voila! It's now shinier than it's ever been. 
Here are some of the uses:
(March's favorite - #5. I don't have any cows, but if I did can you imagine me buying WD-40 at $4 a can to keep the flies at bay?)
(Also #35 - boat owners use a lot of 100mph tape)
1) Protects silver from tarnishing.
2) Removes road tar and grime from cars.
3) Cleans and lubricates guitar strings.
4) Gives floors that 'just-waxed' sheen without making it slippery.
5) Keeps flies off cows. 
6) Restores and cleans chalkboards.
7) Removes lipstick stains.
8) Loosens stubborn zippers.
9) Untangles jewellery chains.
10) Removes stains from stainless steel sinks. 
11) Removes dirt and grime from the barbecue grill.
12) Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing.
13) Removes tomato stains from clothing.
14) Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots.
15) Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors. 
16) Keeps scissors working smoothly.
17) Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in homes
18) It removes black scuffmarks from the kitchen floor! 
Use WD-40 for those nasty tar and scuff marks on flooring. It doesn't seem to harm the finish and you won't have to scrub nearly as hard to get them off. Just remember to open some windows if you have a lot of marks.
19) Bug guts will eat away the finish on your car if not removed quickly! Use WD-40!
20) Gives a children's play gym slide a shine for a super fast slide. 
21) Lubricates gearshift and mower deck lever for ease of handling on riding mowers.
22) Rids kids rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises.
23) Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open.
24) Spraying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and close.
25) Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers. 
26) Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles.
27) Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans.
28) Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for easy handling.
29) Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly.
30) Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades, and other tools. 
31) Removes splattered grease on stove.
32) Keeps bathroom mirror from fogging.
33) Lubricates prosthetic limbs.
34) Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell).
35) Removes all traces of duct tape. 
36) Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees to relieve arthritis pain.
37) Florida 's favourite use is: "cleans and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers."
38) The favourite use in the state of New York WD-40 protects the Statue of Liberty from the elements.
39) WD-40 attracts fish. Spray a LITTLE on live bait or lures and you will be catching the big one in no time.
       Also, it's a lot cheaper than the chemical attractants that are made for just that purpose.
       Keep in mind though, using some chemical laced baits or lures for fishing are not allowed in some states.
40) Use it for fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately and stops the itch. 
41) WD-40 is great for removing crayon from walls.
       Spray on the mark and wipe with a clean rag.
42) Also, if you've discovered that your teenage daughter has washed and dried a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry, 
       Saturate the lipstick spots with WD-40 and re-wash. Presto! Lipstick is gone!
43) If you sprayed WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would displace the moisture and allow the car to start.
44) Keep a can of WD-40 in the kitchen; it is good for oven burns or any other type of burn.
       It takes the burned feeling away and heals with NO scarring. 
The basic ingredient is -----FISH OIL !!!
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I am simply amazed that you get enough performance out of a laptop to enjoy FSX, i have a 1-5 powered one with 4gb of memory and a fair graphics card and fsx just laughs at its feeble efforts.


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If you can't fix something with WD40 and/or gaffer/duct tape it ain't fixable.


I spray it over my car engine every so often, leads, head and battery especially in damp weather. (Like all the time here).

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I get a somewhat decent performance from my laptop, not as good as a box but not to bad either.


WD-40, should be apart of every tool box, along with duct tape and silicone. :D

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Poor Quickmarch, he's got a wonky joystick and we're discussing the merits of WD40.


But here's a handy tip if you are using silicone as a sealant/joint. Apply the sealant then squirt a little WD40 on your index finger and run it along the joint and you get a smooth, even finish.


Hmm, I might start using it on my face.

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Ya gotta love the stuff (WD-40). Many years ago, too long ago to be part of recorded history, I was enamoured of Alpha Romeos, had three of them. The only way they would run in the rain, at least the first two, anyway, was liberal use of WD-40 on the ignition parts. The third one finally cured me and I bought a Ford - bad idea too.


Another bad idea was dismantling the joystick. The re-assembly was a nightmare of tape and sweat. These things are assembled in China by four-armed midgets with pencil-thin fingers. It's back together, works (or doesn't, as the case may be) the same as before I dismantled it. Liberally dosed with WD-40. Sorry there's no photos. Seemed a waste after deciding to tell all of you NOT to disassemble the thing in the first place. "No user serviceable parts inside", or outside, as it turns out.


Lacking a software solution - I'm going to assume hardware malfunction and work around it until I can find a new joystick. The tiny surface-mount switches might be replaceable on a $400 unit, but I can buy another of these Logitech units down the road for $39 - so why bother?

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I am simply amazed that you get enough performance out of a laptop to enjoy FSX, i have a 1-5 powered one with 4gb of memory and a fair graphics card and fsx just laughs at its feeble efforts.


I'm using an Acer 8572G-6647 - Intel i5-480M, GeForce GT330M, 4G DDR3 (will be 8G by the end of the weekend - thanks Brian).


This is not the perfect computer, but living on a boat brings a bunch of compromises into play. SPACE! My kingdom for another square foot. However, that said, and a willingness to stay away from Wx and Scenery not native to FSX results in some pretty good simming. I tried ORBX PNW and gave up on it, going back to, mostly, stock scenery with a few aftermarket airports thrown in. What I really miss is the space required to use pedals and the USB ports to run things like TrackIR.


I'm perfectly happy with PMDG's 737 800-900 series (tiny bit of hesitation, but liveable). I've been using the FS2Crew Button version and I'm about to stick my toe in the deep end with the voice version (that's part of the reason for the extra 4Gb of memory). If all goes well, I'll be flying the PMDG 777 on this laptop. Flies the Avro Arrow and the SR71 flawlessly.


This laptop just eats the run-of-the-mill prop job for breakfast. My list includes the V-Tail Bonanza, C-208, and 182RG II from Carenado, C-130 from Capt'n Sim, Aerosoft Beavers, Aerosoft PBY5's and 5A's, Alabeo Staggerwing and Waco, Majestic Dash 8, Ryan Navion, Piper Super Cub (not the stock one) and the  Lockheed 12A.


YMMV Nigel. I'm sure you're used to much better results and tons of aftermarket stuff.

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